When it comes to your complexion, there’s so much more than meets the eye. Case in point: the skin’s top layer, also known as the “skin barrier,” a term that’s been trending on social media, among experts and in skincare product marketing. It turns out that no matter what your skin type, keeping the barrier balanced is crucial for a complexion that’s healthy, calm, clear and hydrated at any age. Here, Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty Lab scientists and dermatologist experts break down the science and secrets of the barrier, including how to know if it’s damaged or weak and how to fix and repair the symptoms.
So what exactly is the skin barrier?
Simply put, the barrier is the outermost layer of skin. “It traps and holds moisture in your skin, but it also blocks out allergens, irritants and pollutants in the environment, preventing them from penetrating skin and causing inflammation,” explains Whitney Bowe, M.D., a dermatologist in New York and Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology at Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai. “The four main components that make a healthy skin barrier are lipids like ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol; the acid mantle (responsible for skin’s pH); the microbiome, composed mostly of bacteria; and the skin’s immune cells.”
What causes a weak skin barrier?
The skin barrier naturally maintains a symbiosis that keeps your complexion functioning properly (and looking clear and smooth), but these culprits can damage and weaken it, dermatologists say.
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- Overwashing your skin. Cleansing skin too aggressively or too frequently and using cleansers that are overly harsh or drying or have a pH that is too alkaline can disrupt the barrier, Dr. Bowe explains.
- Certain ingredients. Overuse of potentially irritating active ingredients such as retinoids and exfoliating acids, as well as harsh physical exfoliators like grainy scrubs, can harm the skin’s barrier. Other common culprits are some natural or synthetic fragrances as well as drying alcohols, especially on sensitive skin, Dr. Bowe adds.
- Environmental factors. These can include everything from low humidity to high wind, cold climates and sun damage, says Sheila Farhang, M.D., a dermatologist and the founder of Avant Dermatology & Aesthetics in Tucson, Arizona.
- Stress. What’s happening internally can have an effect on skin externally as well. “Overproduction of stress hormones can decrease skin’s natural lipids, disrupt the structural proteins and increase moisture loss,” Dr. Farhang notes.
How do you know your skin barrier is damaged?
A compromised skin barrier can manifest itself in several ways, dermatologists say. Here are the signs and symptoms of a weakened skin barrier.
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Redness and Irritation
Telltale indicators include “skin redness, itching or burning,” Dr. Farhang explains. “Those with rosacea and eczema have intrinsically compromised skin barriers,” Dr. Bowe notes.
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Dryness and Roughness
“When the skin barrier is disrupted, skin becomes dry and can develop rough patches,” Dr. Bowe says.
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Acne Breakouts
Blemishes can be a clue too: “I’ve seen a lot of acne patients who overuse products and disrupt their barrier, and the acne gets worse,” Dr. Farhang says.
How do you fix a damaged skin barrier?
The good news is, even if your skin barrier is compromised or weak, all is not lost. The skin barrier can repair itself over time naturally (if the damage is mild, it can return to a balanced state within a few hours; it can take longer if the symptoms are more severe). Support the process with these best practices to keep your skin’s surface healthy:
- Cleanse carefully. Wash with a gentle cleanser (skin shouldn’t be left feeling squeaky-clean, Dr. Bowe says). Use cool or lukewarm water, as hot H2O can strip your skin’s natural oils, Dr. Farhang adds.
- Tone down exfoliation. Skip harsher physical exfoliants like gritty scrubs in favor of sloughing acids in hydrating forms such as serums, Dr. Bowe advises.
- Replenish and repair skin. Bolster the skin barrier’s natural lipids by applying moisturizers that contain nourishing ingredients such as ceramides and squalane. Formulas made with prebiotics and postbiotics can support healthy skin bacteria.
- Avoid irritants. Seek out skincare products that are free of fragrances and essential oils, and “stop use of anything that burns upon application, which is an indication that your barrier is being damaged,” Dr. Bowe says.
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Best Skin Barrier Products
What about skin’s acid mantle?
Sometimes confused with the skin barrier, the acid mantle is “a thin film over the skin barrier that determines skin’s pH, which should be slightly acidic to protect against pathogens,” Dr. Farhang says. It’s composed of sebum, the natural oil produced by skin’s sebaceous glands, and sweat. “In the same ways the skin barrier can be disrupted, the acid mantle can too,” she explains. In addition, “Skin’s pH gradually increases, or becomes more alkaline, as we age, which can compromise the acid mantle,” says GH Beauty Lab Chemist Danusia Wnek. The four tips above can also help promote a healthy skin pH.
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April (she/her) is the beauty director at Good Housekeeping, Prevention and Woman’s Day, where she oversees all beauty content. She has over 15 years of experience under her belt, starting her career as an assistant beauty editor at GH in 2007, and working in the beauty departments of SELF and Fitness magazines.